Carcassonne

Carcassonne's citadel is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the finest examples of medieval military architecture in the world. The double-walled fortress, restored in the 19th century by Viollet-le-Duc, transports visitors to a world of knights, troubadours, and Cathar history. Approaching the citadel at dusk, when the walls are illuminated and the 53 towers cast long shadows, is one of the most dramatic arrivals in European travel. Inside the walls, the Basilique Saint-Nazaire combines Romanesque and Gothic elements with some of the finest stained glass in southern France. The narrow streets between the inner and outer walls — the lices — allow you to walk the entire perimeter and appreciate the military genius of the fortifications. But Carcassonne's story runs deeper than its walls. The Cathar history of the region, the brutal Albigensian Crusade of the 13th century, and the dramatic siege of 1209 infuse the stones with real historical weight. Beyond the citadel, the surrounding Cathar castles — Peyrepertuse, Queribus, Montsegur, and Lastours — perch on impossible mountain ridges throughout the Languedoc, each telling its own story of resistance and tragedy. The Canal du Midi, Pierre-Paul Riquet's 17th-century masterpiece of engineering and itself a UNESCO World Heritage site, passes through the lower town. A boat cruise along the plane-tree-lined canal offers a tranquil complement to the medieval intensity of the citadel. The Languedoc wine region surrounding Carcassonne produces remarkable values — Corbieres, Minervois, and Limoux (the oldest sparkling wine appellation in France) offer outstanding wines at a fraction of Bordeaux prices. For the most magical accommodation, the Hotel de la Cite within the ramparts offers terrace dining overlooking the illuminated walls at night — an experience that alone justifies the journey south.

Highlights