Dijon

Dijon is far more than mustard. The historic capital of the Dukes of Burgundy boasts one of France's finest concentrations of medieval and Renaissance architecture, plus direct access to the legendary vineyards of the Cote de Nuits and Cote de Beaune — collectively known as the Cote d'Or, the 'Golden Slope' that produces the world's most celebrated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Ducal Palace, now home to the Musee des Beaux-Arts (one of France's oldest and richest art museums, with free admission), anchors the historic center. The surrounding streets are a treasure of medieval and Renaissance townhouses — the Maison Milsand, the Hotel Chambellan with its spiral staircase, and the half-timbered houses along Rue de la Chouette create an urban landscape of remarkable beauty. The famous owl (chouette) carved into the wall of Notre-Dame Church has been rubbed for good luck since the 13th century — touch it with your left hand and make a wish. Les Halles, Dijon's iron-framed covered market designed by Gustave Eiffel's firm, is a gourmand's paradise on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday mornings, overflowing with Burgundian cheeses (Epoisses, Citeaux, Brillat-Savarin), charcuterie, pain d'epices, and creme de cassis. Maille, the legendary mustard house, has operated a boutique in Dijon since 1845 and offers mustard tastings at its Rue de la Liberte shop, including seasonal and limited editions served fresh from pumps — a quintessentially Dijonnais experience. But the real draw lies just south of the city: the Route des Grands Crus, a narrow road winding through the most valuable vineyard land on earth — Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanee (home of Romanee-Conti, the world's most expensive wine), Nuits-Saint-Georges, and on to Beaune. The Hospices de Beaune, with its spectacular polychrome-tiled roof and annual charity wine auction each November, is one of the most iconic buildings in French wine country. For accommodation, the Chapeau Rouge hotel in Dijon's center combines historic character with a two-star Michelin restaurant, while the Hostellerie de Levernois near Beaune offers countryside luxury amid the vineyards.

Highlights